Yesterday was [maybe] my last day in Cochabamba (I might
stay to see the Ruins), and today I woke up around 4:30am to catch a bus to
Toro Toro National Park. I was a little hesitant about it, but I decided just
to go for it. I took all my stuff and walked out towards the main street, and
hailed a taxi. I just had to ask about the “estation para ir a Toro Toro” and
he understood.
The taxi ride was actually pretty cool because, now that I
understand a lot more Spanish, I was actually able to have a conversation with
him! We talked about traveling to Peru, Bolivia, and Chile, public health (the
number of times I have had to explain what it is has been both amusing and
enlightening), La Cancha (the market, which already had people setting up.
Apparently it’s really dangerous – I’ve been told this multiple times, had
someone try to steal my phone from my hands, had my charger pickpocked, and
seen Daniel’s phone be sketchily taken from his pockets – and I believe it) and
some other random things. I was pleasantly surprised at what I could say, and
even though there was still a good amount of guessing at some words, it was
nice! At the very least, a huge departure from some of my first taxi rides,
even in Bolivia. Yay!
I got to the minibus stop (I would have been fine with the
bus since it’s cheaper, but to be honest I didn’t know where it was) and paid
about $5 for a front seat – the price was the same for all seats, I just lucked
out with the front one. I hadn’t realized how much more you can see, because I
was able to take a million pictures of the gorgeous landscape outside the
window for the next 4 hours or so. Wow.
The national park itself doesn’t disappoint either. It’s
connected to the town of Toro Toro, which is way bigger and nicer than Sajama
was. I got there earlier than expected, around 11am, so I walked around for a
place to stay. I met this nice couple that ran a hostel/hotel – a bit more
expensive, but they were so nice and it’s a private room. For one day, I have
no qualms. As I started to explore the city a little, I ran into the three
other backpackers that were staying with Kathy in Cochabamba and had come to
Toro Toro last night. We went to buy tickets (what were they doing last night?)
and ask about tours. We decided to then walk around the city a bit, and started
walking on a road, stopping along the way to climb the base of the mountain a
little. We just talked a little, mostly exchanging language and enjoying the
view. It was quite nice, actually!
I had been told that there was a tour at 2. They had more
time than I do and wanted to continue with the mountain, so I headed back
towards the town myself. I got back a lot faster than we had taken to go, so I
waited at the Plaza Principal for a bit. It reminded me a little of the one in
Ollantaytambo – the feel of it as well as the town itself. Near 2, when the
office reopened (they take 12-2 for lunch), I went back in to ask about a tour.
I waited a little until some people came in for a tour as well, and we formed a
group of 7. We were made of two Americans (me and another lady who had an MPH
and was working with an organization in Cochabamba), two French backpackers
(just finished medical school), and a Bolivian father with his son and
daughter.
Our tour guide was a 23-year-old guy named Timateo (aka
Timothy) that did a great job! We stopped by the dinosaur footprints – they
were way less exciting than I had expected, but the first set seemed to be a
mother/parent and child herbivore, with evidence of a velociraptor type seeming
to come creeping up to pounce on and eat the baby. Oh. They were cool though!
Timateo explained all about the different time periods and the fact that the
movement of tectonic plates meant that the prints we see probably were made
when the rock was in the place that we see it today. Interesting.
I walked past a place that is supposed to be a river in the
summer here, along with a natural bridge. The other place was a natural
auditorium – with a place to perform and a place for the audience. The view the
whole time was really great. A good amount of the time, I was actually talking to
Timateo about his life and what he knows. It felt so, so cool to be talking in
Spanish, having a conversation and just use everything that I’ve been working
so hard on for the past however long. There were, of course, times when I had
to guess what he was saying/meant, but for the most part it was good!
Apparently he is a student who started studying tourism for a little bit but
decided to change, and used to work a lot but now works usually on weekends to
go to school during the week. University costs 50 Bs with all expenses paid for
public schools, apparently. WHAT.
We saw the canyon from a lookout point – similar to the
Grand Canyon! It’s one of few canyons that are made from the movement of
tectonic plates and not water, which is shown by the fact that it has a zigzag
pattern and the walls are more or less straight with what look like steps along
the lower levels. This indicates that the canyon was made in steps, and not all
at once. And certainly not with water, which would have made more of a triangular
than rectangular shape. It’s home to some endangered species as well!
We then made our way into the canyon where we went to our
real prize – the waterfalls. Just look.
The road back up the canyon made me want to just go to
sleep, but I made it! I was able to converse a little with one of the French
girls about medical school in France – it’s 6 years of combined university and
medical school equivalents in the US. School costs maybe 350 Euros per year,
and they just have to pay for housing and food and stuff. Wow. If only.
The four backpackers ended up going to dinner with Timateo –
and at this point, even though my Spanish was second-best, I had spoken to him
the most. We ate (nice plate of chicken with rice and vegetables for $1.50!!),
and then the others girls left while I taught Timateo some English. We
exchanged Facebook information and will hopefully stay in touch! In Spanish,
Facebook is actually pronounced the same, but Google is pronounced
phonetically. Goog-lé:
LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL
It’s kind of incredible how far I’ve come with Spanish in
the last several weeks – considering I had a really tough time speaking even
when I went to Oruro about 3 weeks ago. I’m not trying to brag – I’m just
saying that practicing and dedicating myself to thinking in Spanish when I can
(and not translating but simply thinking in Spanish only) has helped me make
some really incredible progress. More technical conversations are too tough for
me now still, but everyday casual conversation I can do. Wow. It certainly
helps that Bolivians speak clearly and more or less slowly. I’m worried about
Chile, but we’ll see. Maybe it’ll just push me to improve even more, even
faster. But first, great day! I’m extremely glad I came – despite my initial
doubts.
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